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	<title>Comments for Jake Kulstad</title>
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	<link>http://www.jkulstad.com</link>
	<description>A Random Tech Sandbox</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 10 Oct 2011 03:31:54 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on Building a Storage Bed Frame by jkulstad</title>
		<link>http://www.jkulstad.com/content/storage-bed/comment-page-1/#comment-5102</link>
		<dc:creator>jkulstad</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Oct 2011 03:31:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jkulstad.com/?p=270#comment-5102</guid>
		<description>Hi Amra,

sorry... no plans for the center support.  I made it the same size as Anna&#039;s center.  The support piece had 2x2s around the perimeter, and 2x2s were glued and screwed into the boxes below that.  The tabs that lock it all together are just pieces of plywood that I screwed in to hook it up.

I would recommend the technique that I used in the &quot;oak&quot; bed on my site since it is much more simple.  Just build the center support, and attach the 2x2s to the boxes for support.  Once the bed is assembled and square, drive 3&quot; screws down to hold the center piece into the supports.  Much easier than Anna&#039;s technique, and extremely solid... hope that helps.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Amra,</p>
<p>sorry&#8230; no plans for the center support.  I made it the same size as Anna&#8217;s center.  The support piece had 2x2s around the perimeter, and 2x2s were glued and screwed into the boxes below that.  The tabs that lock it all together are just pieces of plywood that I screwed in to hook it up.</p>
<p>I would recommend the technique that I used in the &#8220;oak&#8221; bed on my site since it is much more simple.  Just build the center support, and attach the 2x2s to the boxes for support.  Once the bed is assembled and square, drive 3&#8243; screws down to hold the center piece into the supports.  Much easier than Anna&#8217;s technique, and extremely solid&#8230; hope that helps.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Building a Storage Bed Frame by jkulstad</title>
		<link>http://www.jkulstad.com/content/storage-bed/comment-page-1/#comment-5101</link>
		<dc:creator>jkulstad</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Oct 2011 03:27:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jkulstad.com/?p=270#comment-5101</guid>
		<description>Hi Tricia,

The plywood that I used i this project as ~30/sheet... I don&#039;t think there really is &quot;hardwood&quot; plywood per se... the expensive stuff may have an Oak veneer (which is hardwood), but the intermediate layers are likely not Oak.  The $45/sheet stuff will have fewer voids, put it is not critical to get the high-end stuff if you are able to fill it with wood putty and paint it a solid color.  I got expensive plywood (Oak veneer - $50/sheet) for the bed that I stained since it was important to see the wood grain.  If you need to save money on the plywood, shop around a bit (if you can).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Tricia,</p>
<p>The plywood that I used i this project as ~30/sheet&#8230; I don&#8217;t think there really is &#8220;hardwood&#8221; plywood per se&#8230; the expensive stuff may have an Oak veneer (which is hardwood), but the intermediate layers are likely not Oak.  The $45/sheet stuff will have fewer voids, put it is not critical to get the high-end stuff if you are able to fill it with wood putty and paint it a solid color.  I got expensive plywood (Oak veneer &#8211; $50/sheet) for the bed that I stained since it was important to see the wood grain.  If you need to save money on the plywood, shop around a bit (if you can).</p>
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		<title>Comment on Building a Storage Bed Frame by Tricia</title>
		<link>http://www.jkulstad.com/content/storage-bed/comment-page-1/#comment-5049</link>
		<dc:creator>Tricia</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Oct 2011 05:00:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jkulstad.com/?p=270#comment-5049</guid>
		<description>you said this is regular b/c grade plywood...are we talking hard or softwood plywood?  my local plywood suppliers are charging $45/sheet for the plywood called for in Ana&#039;s plan.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>you said this is regular b/c grade plywood&#8230;are we talking hard or softwood plywood?  my local plywood suppliers are charging $45/sheet for the plywood called for in Ana&#8217;s plan.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Building a Storage Bed Frame by Amra</title>
		<link>http://www.jkulstad.com/content/storage-bed/comment-page-1/#comment-4905</link>
		<dc:creator>Amra</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Sep 2011 23:33:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jkulstad.com/?p=270#comment-4905</guid>
		<description>I love it!  I was wondering if you could send me the plans you made for the center support and the hooks to keep it all together.  My husband is in the military and this would make it sooo much easier to move around.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I love it!  I was wondering if you could send me the plans you made for the center support and the hooks to keep it all together.  My husband is in the military and this would make it sooo much easier to move around.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Building a Storage Bed Frame by jkulstad</title>
		<link>http://www.jkulstad.com/content/storage-bed/comment-page-1/#comment-4659</link>
		<dc:creator>jkulstad</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Sep 2011 20:28:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jkulstad.com/?p=270#comment-4659</guid>
		<description>This project just used regular (b/c) plywood.  The &quot;B&quot; side has the holes filled and sanded for the exposed/painted surfaces.  It is pretty easy to put in wood putty over any imperfections and paint it for a good finish.  I also used white latex caulking (dynaflex 230) for any imperfections between the wood and the trim.  It is paintable and flexible... I love the stuff.

a note on the sizing: plywood is a hair less than 3/4&quot; of an inch thick, but it doesn&#039;t really matter for this project.  The only thing you should take extra care with is the center divider for each bench.  I cut my pieces after measuring the actual opening size on the first bench to see what size to make them.

MDF will look better initially, but I WOULD NOT use it.  It is tricky to glue, screws pull out, and it will not last many years.  In the end it will end up on the curb... just like all the other MDF furniture that nobody wants anymore.  Plywood is not real wood, but it will provide you with a vastly superior product to use 5 years from now.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This project just used regular (b/c) plywood.  The &#8220;B&#8221; side has the holes filled and sanded for the exposed/painted surfaces.  It is pretty easy to put in wood putty over any imperfections and paint it for a good finish.  I also used white latex caulking (dynaflex 230) for any imperfections between the wood and the trim.  It is paintable and flexible&#8230; I love the stuff.</p>
<p>a note on the sizing: plywood is a hair less than 3/4&#8243; of an inch thick, but it doesn&#8217;t really matter for this project.  The only thing you should take extra care with is the center divider for each bench.  I cut my pieces after measuring the actual opening size on the first bench to see what size to make them.</p>
<p>MDF will look better initially, but I WOULD NOT use it.  It is tricky to glue, screws pull out, and it will not last many years.  In the end it will end up on the curb&#8230; just like all the other MDF furniture that nobody wants anymore.  Plywood is not real wood, but it will provide you with a vastly superior product to use 5 years from now.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Building Storage Bed #2 by jkulstad</title>
		<link>http://www.jkulstad.com/content/storagebed2/comment-page-1/#comment-4658</link>
		<dc:creator>jkulstad</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Sep 2011 20:13:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jkulstad.com/?p=439#comment-4658</guid>
		<description>Unfortunately, I have not made much progress on getting baskets purchased or drawers made... I think I need a new workshop...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Unfortunately, I have not made much progress on getting baskets purchased or drawers made&#8230; I think I need a new workshop&#8230;</p>
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		<title>Comment on Building a Crib by jkulstad</title>
		<link>http://www.jkulstad.com/content/building-a-crib/comment-page-1/#comment-4657</link>
		<dc:creator>jkulstad</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Sep 2011 20:10:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jkulstad.com/?p=345#comment-4657</guid>
		<description>that sounds like a terrible experience.  I have read that another way to do it is to buy a high-dollar unfinished crib and then do it yourself with a finish that you trust.  I can say from experience that it is a bit stressful to finish a critical project before the due-date (or potentially earlier!).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>that sounds like a terrible experience.  I have read that another way to do it is to buy a high-dollar unfinished crib and then do it yourself with a finish that you trust.  I can say from experience that it is a bit stressful to finish a critical project before the due-date (or potentially earlier!).</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Building a Storage Bed Frame by jkulstad</title>
		<link>http://www.jkulstad.com/content/storage-bed/comment-page-1/#comment-4655</link>
		<dc:creator>jkulstad</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Sep 2011 19:31:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jkulstad.com/?p=270#comment-4655</guid>
		<description>I was only mildly concerned about the mildew issue.  The topic came up on Anna&#039;s site when I was looking through reader posts.  People also claimed that there were complaints of mildew with the original manufactured product.  The suggestion was to use a mattress &quot;gripper&quot; pad (or something of that nature) to provide a bit more room for air to flow.

The sheets of plywood for this project were ~$30/each.  The trim for this bed was basic pine furring strips that are very cheap... take care to find the straightest ones in the pile since some end up being pretty warped/cracked.  Since the plan was to paint it from the beginning you can save a few bucks and get the lower-grade wood.  On my second bed I used $50/sheet plywood because it was getting stained... that bed had oak trim and cost almost three times as much to build after paying for all of the stain.

The time for this painted bed was probably 20 hours or so.  I spent considerably more time on the stained version with oak trim.  Each cut for the trim needed to be much more precise, and I used a miter saw for that.  For my second bed, I also utilized an air nailer with 1/8&quot; brads... that saved a TON of time... definitely worth the price.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was only mildly concerned about the mildew issue.  The topic came up on Anna&#8217;s site when I was looking through reader posts.  People also claimed that there were complaints of mildew with the original manufactured product.  The suggestion was to use a mattress &#8220;gripper&#8221; pad (or something of that nature) to provide a bit more room for air to flow.</p>
<p>The sheets of plywood for this project were ~$30/each.  The trim for this bed was basic pine furring strips that are very cheap&#8230; take care to find the straightest ones in the pile since some end up being pretty warped/cracked.  Since the plan was to paint it from the beginning you can save a few bucks and get the lower-grade wood.  On my second bed I used $50/sheet plywood because it was getting stained&#8230; that bed had oak trim and cost almost three times as much to build after paying for all of the stain.</p>
<p>The time for this painted bed was probably 20 hours or so.  I spent considerably more time on the stained version with oak trim.  Each cut for the trim needed to be much more precise, and I used a miter saw for that.  For my second bed, I also utilized an air nailer with 1/8&#8243; brads&#8230; that saved a TON of time&#8230; definitely worth the price.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Building Storage Bed #2 by jkulstad</title>
		<link>http://www.jkulstad.com/content/storagebed2/comment-page-1/#comment-4653</link>
		<dc:creator>jkulstad</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Sep 2011 19:22:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jkulstad.com/?p=439#comment-4653</guid>
		<description>I have to admit that I have not yet found suitably-sized baskets.  My plan is to build drawers when time allows.  At present, it looks pretty good with the comforter partially covering the cubbies to hide the books, etc. that get thrown in there.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have to admit that I have not yet found suitably-sized baskets.  My plan is to build drawers when time allows.  At present, it looks pretty good with the comforter partially covering the cubbies to hide the books, etc. that get thrown in there.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Building a Crib by MissSea</title>
		<link>http://www.jkulstad.com/content/building-a-crib/comment-page-1/#comment-3829</link>
		<dc:creator>MissSea</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Jul 2011 16:50:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.jkulstad.com/?p=345#comment-3829</guid>
		<description>We spent many dollars on purchasing a crib from a company that used renewable wood sources, finishes with no VOC&#039;s, etc. At six months, our daughter decided to use the crib as a chew toy. Three months after that, our crib was recalled because California has more stringent guidelines about finishes on baby products, and the sealant used didn&#039;t meet those guidelines. </description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We spent many dollars on purchasing a crib from a company that used renewable wood sources, finishes with no VOC&#8217;s, etc. At six months, our daughter decided to use the crib as a chew toy. Three months after that, our crib was recalled because California has more stringent guidelines about finishes on baby products, and the sealant used didn&#8217;t meet those guidelines.</p>
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